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So we decided to cut the original filter
open and see whether it was even possible for pieces the size
of those found in the pump to get past the filter media. As you
can see in Figure 6, the actual filter that was cut open had a
section of about three to four inches of media that did not get
clamped down along the edge where the filter halves meet.
At this point, we decided to take a new
aftermarket filter and cut it open to see whether the problem
also existed in the aftermarket versions. We dissected an
aftermarket filter, and as you can see in Figure 7, there was
no mistake. The filter media was crimped all the way around the
outer edge.
I don’t know whether a replacement
cushion spring is available from Mitsubishi, Hyundai, Dodge or
Chrysler, and I’ve been told from a Dodge dealership that
this part number MR534166 was the latest number available. They
had no knowledge of this part being updated in any way.
The good news is that with the aftermarket
F4A51 filter, if the new snap ring breaks, no big pieces are
going to get into the pump.
One other problem that has plagued this
unit also has to do with the pump. After rebuild, the transaxle
returns with the pump bushing destroyed and a leak from the
front seal. This may occur in a couple of days or as little as
a few minutes, during the road test. The problem is that this
pump is aligned at the plant, and there are no leading edges
that can be aligned with a band-type alignment tool or with
alignment studs. Several technicians have
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tried to align the pump with the converter
and have had disastrous results. After two or three pumps
returning with the same failure, I will get a frustrated
technician calling with the question, “Is there a $%@#$
alignment tool for this pump?!”
Well, at one time there wasn’t, but
now Sonnax has an alignment tool available
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that works great. The Sonnax part number
is #41005-TL, and the tool comes with a pump bushing (see
Figure 8).
The only possible way to align this pump
without the tool (I have done this procedure myself, so I know
it works) is to assemble the pump with the bolts finger tight
and place it onto the main case with the bellhousing bolted to
the case, and with the transfer gear removed from the center of
the case so that you can see the pump bolts through the rear of
the case (see figures 9 and 10). Then, with an extension, a
swivel and a Torx bit of the proper size, you can tighten the
pump bolts with a hand ratchet. Then remove the pump and torque
it to specifications.
Thanks to Billy at P & B
Transmissions, Casey at Ed’s Automatic Transmission and
Bill at Eastern Transmission for sending me the pumps and
filters for this article.
Mike Souza is a technical-hotline
specialist with the Automatic Transmission Service Group
(ATSG).
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©2005 Transmission Digest
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